It would take a Bruce Springsteen ballad to describe the scene in this corner of the Langhe: father and son washing the barriques in the courtyard, the doorbell ringing, dogs barking, the sound of footsteps, the burning July sun. A man in his early thirties comes out to meetus wearing boots, jeans, and a black shirt. It is him, Enzo Boglietti, the rock star of Barolo. He welcomes us into the kitchen and begins to talk. He has been married for two weeks and has been making wine for five or six years. Two godfathers keep watch over him, just like Jerry Lee Lewis and Roy Orbison; the one looks after his modern side (the barrique) and the other looks after his traditional, melodic lyricism (in other words, balance). And this is what his wines are like.—Gambero Rosso, Italian Wines 1998

Since Enzo Boglietti assumed control at his family domain, he has pushed quality to near Barolo’s summit. Despite spectacular vineyard holdings, the family had sold the entire production in bulk prior to 1991. Perhaps inspired by local leaders, Elio Altare and Roberto Voerzio, young Enzo set out to maximize the potential of his vineyards.

While Barolo lacks Burgundy’s formalized vineyard hierarchy, there is clearly a local understanding of the top sites. Some of the very best in the appellation lie along a steep slope south of La Morra. Along this slope are famous names like Case Nere, Fossati, Cerequio, and Brunate. These south and southeast facing parcels produce some of Barolo’s most profound wines—especially Brunate which would clearly be ranked Grand Cru if Piedmont ever adopted the Burgundian classification system.

Most of Enzo’s vineyard holdings are on this “Golden Slope,” and it is their quality that has allowed him to progress so quickly. A high percentage of old(and very healthy) vines, allows him to produce rich normale and incredible cru Dolcetto, Barbera, and Barolo. The total production of the domain is less than 4,000 cases, so quantities are always tight. Until 2000, almost the entire production was sold directly to his mailing list and to restaurants in Italy and Switzerland. Today, we are proud to be Enzo’s exclusive U.S. agents. Quantities are small, but isn’t that always the case with wines like Enzo’s?

Dolcetto “Tiglineri”—Selected from old vine parcels in Dogliani and Monforte (for power) and La Morra (for perfume), this wine ranks among the finest Dolcettos made for its purity and length.

Barbera “Romani”—Gambero Rosso: “This is a great wine, vinified with an expert touch, where the varietal aromas blend perfectly with the sweetness of the wood...”

Langhe “Buio”—Enzo uses his young vine Barolo fruit, combined with some Barbera, to produce Buio. Unabashedly flamboyant, this is the wine to drink while waiting for the cru Barolos to mature!

Barolo crus:

Fossati—The most powerful cru, and Enzo produces his most notably “new style” wine there. Tre Bicchieri from Gambero Rosso in 1996.

Brunate—The most refined cru. The wine goes into barrique for only 6 months, then finishes elevage in large wooden uprights. Magical Barolo.

Case Nere—Falls somewhere between the two in style. It is often called Enzo’s best Barolo, and is marked by a very rich middle and finish.