On the far eastern edge of Ribera del Duero, the town of Atauta overlooks a hidden canyon, its floor covered with ancient Tempranillo vines. From this canyon, an important new estate has emerged: Dominio de Atauta.

Vines were first planted in Atauta over a thousand years ago. The people who tended those vines also built dozens of limestone winecellars which surreally dot the landscape. In modern times, these cellars—and the vines that supplied them—were abandoned.

Rediscovering Atauta’s Past. A prominent Madrid wine merchant, Miguel Sanchez, grew up near Atauta. When he left, he had little idea that Atauta was anything but a sleepy, aging town. The few remaining local growers, however, noted his success. In 1995, they asked him for help in marketing their wines. Miguel quickly found a market for them but, in the process, he discovered what a viticultural treasure the zone was. Everywhere he looked, he saw small neglected plots of ancient Tempranillo vines.

He also realized that the Phylloxera plague that devastated most European vineyards 140 years ago had largely bypassed Atauta. Today, Atauta is a priceless rarity: a sea of ungrafted vines, many exceeding 100 years of age.

Bringing Atauta Back. Miguel understood the area’s potential and began acquiring vineyards—a slow, painstaking process given their parcelized (and often forgotten) ownership. He also went in search of a winemaker to bring his project to fruition. After consulting colleagues in several countries, he chose a talented young Frenchman, Bertrand Sourdais, who had interned at Mouton Rothschild and Leoville Las Cases, and with Alvaro Palacios.

Bertrand had plenty to do when he joined Miguel during the summer of 1999. His primary challenge was to rehabilitate the neglected vineyards—a project that continues today. He also helped design a gravity-fed winery and a program of biodynamic viticulture, allowing no chemicals or fertilizers to be used at Atauta.

The Wines. Atauta lies an hour east, and a quarter mile higher, than most Ribera del Duero vineyards. Nighttime temperatures are considerably cooler here, leading to a “freshness” that other Riberas cannot match.

Fermented with indigenous yeast, and aged primarily in used barriques, Atauta created a new paradigm for Ribera del Duero. The wines have incredible concentration, yet also demonstrate balance, refinement, and a delicacy that belies their typical 13.5% alcohol.

In addition to the regular bottling, the team has identified parcels that reveal extraordinary character. In each vintage, they will release one, two, or all three.

Valdegatiles. Made from 100+-year-old vines grown on sand, this wine is explosively aromatic, with an array of red and black fruits.

La Mala. The “Bad” is named for tiny yields provided by the massive, 150-year-old vines in the site. Bertrand believes this is a unique mutation of Tinto Fino, and the resulting wines display black fruits and incredible textures.

Llanos del Almendro. Bertand believes this is the best site in Atauta. In the right vintages, it combines the depth of La Mala with the exuberance of Valdegatiles.

The wines of Dominio de Atauta are a must for anyone who wants not only pleasure from a wine, but with every sip to explore its origins.