In early 2006, we bought a large and pristine parcel of the superb 1990 Produttori Barbaresco in 3-liter bottles with their original cases. At that point, the wine was barely 15 years old and evolving glacially in that large format.
 
And so we decided to hang on to them until they entered their prime drinking zone. It took another 15 years, but they’ve finally arrived, as our entire team learned at an RWC dinner one week ago.
 
We split a single jero into two magnum decanters and watched over the next 90 minutes as the wine unfurled itself gloriously. Based on that performance, there's little doubt these bottles will continue to evolve for another 20 years.
 
A Revelatory Experience
Not having broached a jero in a decade, we didn’t know what to expect last Monday. But on pulling the cork, it was immediately apparent that this classic Barbaresco had awakened from its slumber. With decanting it blossomed even more, filling the room with its classic perfume of tar, plums, brown spices and dried flowers, while its texture grew increasingly velvety, all framed within its firm, yet resolved, tannins.
 
It continued to expand with further aeration, the character of the Produttori’s hallowed terroirs, as seen through the lens of this great Barbaresco vintage, on full display by the end of the last glass. It was quite a performance.
 
And, now that we’ve confirmed that it is, at last, fulfilling its potential, we’re happy to offer this prize.