In the 1980s and 1990s, Michel Ferraton made some great red Hermitages from his family’s old-vine holding—though not in every year they should have. But since the domaine’s conversion to biodynamic farming and subsequent purchase by Chapoutier, today’s Ferraton wines are the most consistently powerful ever, as demonstrated by the stunning 2009s.

The new regime’s approach is on full display in 2009, a year ideally suited to its rich, powerful winemaking style. The old vines have adapted to their biodynamic viticulture, and all the hard work and perfectionist farming has realized the potential of of Ferraton’s storied Hermitage plots.

The health of the vineyards and fruit quality has reached a new level. To get the most from the superb fruit, the grapes get the utmost care in the cellar, with concrete vinification and a moderate use of new oak for aging.

The resurgence of Ferraton hasn’t escaped the notice of Robert Parker and the Wine Spectator’s James Molesworth, each of whom rewarded the ’09s with lavish ratings. The only drawback is the tiny production—fewer than 200 cases of each wine.