For more than half a century, the late Elvio Cogno was a towering figure in Barolo, having been responsible for the legendary Marcarini Brunate Barolos of the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s.

But Cogno also loved to work with antique grape varieties and ancient vineyards. And one of his greatest discoveries was a quarter-hectare of 120-year-old, own-rooted Barbera vines in the hamlet of Berri in La Morra, whose sandy soil has kept it phylloxera-free for over a century.

South-facing at 520 meters elevation, this site brings the fruit of these low-yielding vines to a concentrated essence of terroir and grape variety unlike any other in the Langhe today. 

Of course, in the Langhe’s historic 2016 growing season, these vines yielded Barbera fruit of unique floral and mineral complexity, and remarkable depth and structure. Cogno’s son-in-law and successor, Walter Fissore, made the most of the year, turning out a Barbera d’Alba Pre-Phylloxera that captures the essence of the grape, terroir and vintage with great purity.

With less than 200 cases produced, the 2016 Elvio Cogno Barbera Pre-Phylloxera is rare not only in its expression, but in availability as well.