The Aube’s Cédric Bouchard may be the poster child of a new generation of young French winemakers in willing to take chances on big ideas.

And this appetite for calculated risk (and the incredible reward it can bring) is no more evident than in his vaunted single-parcel Champagnes, such as the brilliant 2007 Côte de Béchalin,

Exceptionally rich and deep, yet with its own high-toned citrus and flower perfume, the ’07 Béchalin is a compelling example of how Bouchard’s willingness to consistently push the limits can result in magical expressions of site, variety and vintage.

But a decade after the vintage, and with a full seven years aging on the lees, the ’07 Côte de Béchalin is now nearly impossible to find. 

Back Story
The success Cedric has enjoyed as a grower Champagne superstar has come as no surprise to those who’ve followed his work closely. Since his beginning in 2000, he has, in the words of Antonio Galloni, “essentially deconstructed Champagne,” by applying a strict philosophy of “one variety, one parcel, one harvest.”

He measures his tiny production not in cases but in number of bottles. His winemaking is minimalist in the extreme, relying almost entirely on his work in the vineyard to achieve his magic. This includes organic farming, radically low yields and striving for perfect just-under-the-wire ripeness.

This last aspect of Bouchard’s work exemplifies how far he is willing to go for maximum articulation of variety, terroir and vintage. His search every year for full ripeness, while not going over the line, stands in stark contrast to the approach of the grandes marques.

As a result, all of Bouchard’s Champagnes are bottled sans dosage, not to capitalize on the non-dosé trend, but simply because additional sugar is unnecessary.

Côte de Béchalin
Above all, Bouchard seeks absolute purity of expression, particularly of site. And one of his most fascinating vineyards is Côte de Béchalin, a tiny southwest-facing plot of Kimmeridgian marl, planted with old Pinot Noir vines.

Prior to purchasing the vines in 2007, Bouchard made Champagne from Béchalin in 2004, 2005 and 2006, calling the wine Inflorescence La Parcelle. The 2007 vintage was the first under Bouchard’s ownership and wearing the domaine Roses de Jeanne Côte de Béchalin label.

Disgorged after a whopping 7 years on the lees and released a year later in tiny quantities, the 2007 Côte de Béchalin quickly became rare.

If you love uniquely great, and highly individual, Champagne, you shouldn’t miss this.