Barbeito (Madeira)

D’Oliveira (Madeira)

Quinta do Feital (Alvarinho)

The Rare Wine Co.
Historic Series (Madeira)

It is ironic that among major producers of Madeira, the youngest firm has the most impressive stock of very old wines not only on the island of Madeira, but in the world. Vinhos Barbeito was founded just 58 years ago, in 1946, by Mario Barbeito de Vasconcelos, a wealthy businessman. The firm’s incredible range of old vintages today is due to his foresight, since in the 1940’s and 1950’s Barbeito de Vasconcelos went around the island buying up large quantities of privately owned wine, some of it dating back to the 18th century. These old wines became the foundation for one of the world’s most unique wine libraries.

The Sources for Barbeito’s Treasures. Barbeito de Vasconcelos bought his wines from small growers who had stocks of old, high quality wine set aside for a rainy day, as well as from old families who had put aside great vintages for future generations. Included among these purchases were some of Madeira’s greatest wines, from the island’s most important growing areas, including Cama do Lobos, Sao Martinho, Campanario, Canico and Ribera Brava. Included among Barbeito’s prizes was the fabulous, and famous, 1795 Terrantez that belonged to the Hinton-Welsh family.

Preserved in Cask. Noel Cossart once wrote in his book Madeira: The Island Vineyard:

We are fortunate that the old shippers and growers reserved their best vintages as a ‘nest egg’ or an investment against emergencies. They just kept them in wood, locked away, rarely drinking them except for a wedding or an anniversary, selling them only when they were hard up. There was certainly a loss from evaporation, calculated at two per cent per annum but, on the other hand, this ullage was far surpassed by the gain in quality.

At the time Barbeito acquired them, these wines were virtually all still in cask, a traditional practice in Madeira, where 50 to 100 years or more in wood is mandatory for the very greatest wines. The long, slow oxidative process in cask adds to the wine’s complexity. And though very costly to the owner, the evaporation in barrel concentrates the flavor and extract.

Since Mario Barbeito de Vasconcelos’ death in the 1980’s, Barbeito has continued to keep its old wine in 600-liter French barrels, only bottling enough to meet its needs for the next two years. Along with D’Oliveira, Barbeito today represents the finest source for old Madeiras, not only on the island, but in the world.

1834 Barbeito Malvasia
Tanzer: “93 rating... suave and wellknit, with gentle acidity. Has a superb core of fresh fruit and lovely delicacy... Very long and smooth on the back end.”

1863 Barbeito Bual
 Tanzer: “94 rating... extremely aromatic nose of caramel apple. Piercing appley acidity gives this firm, very rich wine perfect balance and razor-sharp definition...”

1875 Barbeito Malvasia
Wine Spectator: “94 rating. Lovely concentration and richness, like drinking velvet. This has great balance, freshness and subtle length.”

1885 Barbeito Verdelho
Tanzer: “95 rating... High-toned floral nose offers wood, pear, apple nuances suggestive of old Calvados. Penetrating and intensely flavored, but mouthfilling and delicious... Wonderful inner-mouth aromatics.”

1900 Barbeito Malvasia
Wine Spectator: “97 rating. Very high-toned and complex bouquet, with resinous, treaclelike, smoky notes... fine, racy acidity and walnut flavors augmented by treacle... Has finesse, length and intensity.”

1901 Barbeito Malvasia
 Tanzer: “92(+) rating... Lovely, subtle vanilla and spice notes in the mouth; the gentle flavors build to a crescendo. An elegant, silky, understated wine... really communicates the essence of Madeira.”

1910 Barbeito Sercial
Wine Spectator: “94 rating. Rich, almost lush bouquet of caramel and green tea with a salt tang. Fills the mouth with a velvety texture and flavors ranging from caramel to walnuts, finishing with a tangy acidity that cleanses and refreshes the palate. Like a ballerina.”

1910 Barbeito Bual
Wine Spectator: “91 rating... chocolate and spices, all presented with fine underlying structure.”

1916 Barbeito Malvasia
Mouthfilling richness, a velvety texture, luscious chocolate and coffee flavors, and marvelous acidity.

1926 Barbeito Verdelho
A wonderfully dense, rich, moderately sweet Verdelho, balanced by brisk acidity.

1929 Barbeito Verdelho
Wine Spectator: “92 rating. Shows a conbination of elegance and power; delivering aromas of wet earth, black tea and a slightly burnt note.”

1948 Barbeito Malvasia
Wine Spectator: “95 rating... a streak of bittersweet chocolate or cocoa... followed by rich caramel and plum flavors. Velvety in texture, until the tangy finish rushed in like the surf. Mouthwatering finish, with a complex aftertaste. Fascinating.”

1954 Barbeito Malvasia
Wine Spectator: “93 rating... displaying butterscotch and hints of herbs, this has a seamless integration of components on the palate, balanced and harmonious, with vibrant acidity weaving throughout. Long finish... Gentle, but with inner strength.”

1955 Barbeito Bual
The nose is powerful and evocative: bitter chocolate, caramel apple, nuts, smoke and toast. The palate is dense and concentrated, but with palate-refreshing acidity.

1957 Barbeito Bual
Alex Liddell: “★★. Delicate bouquet, with harmonious volatility; quite rich, nutty, full...”

1960 Barbeito Bual
Already showing remarkable roundness, despite its “youth.”

1962 Barbeito Malvasia
Rich, lush and velvety on the palate, with a core of brisk, citrusy acidity... a truly delicious Malmsey.

1978 Barbeito Sercial
With its compelling toffee richness, this could be the finest young Sercial in the market today. A magical mate to seared shellfish.